Haddon Lumbermaker

I love this item. I researched for months Alaskan chain saws . Couldn’t decide what to purchase. Then I came across a you tube of a guy using this item. Same design from the 70s. Their website was old school and I loved the old info booklet it came with from the 1970s with the details on how to use it. It’s solid and made well. Easy to figure out how to use. Best of all, it works great! I used it all day yesterday. Made some amazing looking cedar slabs and boards. My only complaint and it’s a small complaint, is you only get one Allen key. You need this Allen key to tightened and make adjustments. Basically if you are way back in the woods and you drop or loose this little key your day could pretty much be over using the tool to make slabs. I’m going to purchase a ton of extra Allen keys. Otherwise 5 stars!! Super happy with this purchase.

I was skeptical, but it works extremely well for making true 4x4 and 6x6. I tested with a medium-duty Husqvarna 435 with a 18” bar and recent chain (not razor-sharp, not bad either). Wood was cut very square and saw did not slip off this jig. Was happy to claim this old cedar that was downed in a tornado at a family retreat that goes back generations. The end product will be as square as your guide board if you follow the directions. If you are not good with running chainsaws, this is not for you. It would not work with an electric saw unless the wood was very small and very soft. Minimum 18” bar with this- angling it down more than 45 degrees is where it gets unsafe. The overall capability of what you can saw is limited by your saw- again, minimum 18” for 6x6 and minimum 40-50cc. Make a sacrificial crib at least 6 inches off the ground to miss kissing it and ending your chain. The crib doesn’t need to be exactly level and if it moves a little it doesn’t matter so long as you blade stays square on the guide board. Full power, don’t push hard, and draw to you. Make sure the guide board is very true. You only need 2-3 3.5” woods screws to hold this down snug. Make the guide board past past the log about 12” so that you have room to end the cut. Mounting the bar is easy- read the directions. I thought the ‘pinning’ method would slip eventually, and it did start to rotate a little after a few passes, but never slipped off and touched chain to metal. The other method is drilling two holes through your bar and use included grade 8 bolts- I’m doing that next to make this even better. Again, read the directions. First printing was 1976 and a very thoughtful man wrote them. If you have wood to fell, this is a must. I am adding another hobby if dropping trees for top-quality beams now in my spare time.

Received the Haddon Lumbermaker and all seemed fine out of the box. The only issue I found is that the center tapped screw hole which is used as the third "safety" set screw for holding the chain bar to the Lumbermaker was not tapped correctly and the provided set screws couldn't be fully secured. The other two tapped holes were fine. Since I decided to hard-bolt the Lumbermaker to my chain bar anyway (it just feels more safer to do it this way for me) the set-screw thing wasn't a real issue in my case. The tool is well-made and formed from thick metal and heavy duty fixings. It provides a simple way to mill lumber from trees and to square off edges to create the "cant". You can mill boards using this tool, but I am finding it best used in combination with an Alaskan-style mill jig for the chainsaw. I use the Lumbermaker to slice the first edge off a log, and then sometimes the two opposing faces before switching to the Alaskan mill to cut the boards.

I used the lumbermaker to turn scrap logs from a tree service job into beautiful 6x6 and 6x8 beams. I also cut a large oak log into 3" thick live-edge slabs, moving the guide board each time. It was so simple to use with a 2x6 as the guide rail. It does take time to cut large logs, even with a ripping chain and a 20" saw, but it was time well spent. The lumbermaker attaches to the bar very simply with set screws or you can drill holes in your bar and mount with bolts. There are other similar products out there for cheaper, and I'm not sure what the difference is, but I've always believed you get what you pay for. The lumbermaker is no exception. It is a well-built, quality product and a great way to turn logs into lumber.

I have a good stock of 70' power line poles, cut into 8' lengths. Once I got the 2x6 planed and sanded to the correct width, and attached to the poles, I added wax to the sides of the 2x6, just to make the Haddon jig slide easily. It worked perfectly. I'm using it to make lumber from several old power line poles, that are made of cedar. I'm using a Stihl MS251 w/18" bar, with a regular chain. Plan to purchase a 20" bar and chain, so I can reach all the way through some of the larger ends of poles. I have a 12" planer, so the slight rough cut is no issue, as I can slice them off at +1"thick and plane down to 3/4 or 13/16. I'm able to produce lots of perfectly smooth valuable cedar lumber, for fencing and bird house projects at a fraction of lumberyard prices. I would caution everyone to recheck the tightness of the three set screws used to connect the lumbermaker to the chain bar, to insure they stay tight. Be careful to not overtighten and warp or break the casting. I found after using the device for a few minutes that the screws needed a little more tightening. Use all the safety precautions reccommended with the equipment, take your time, be safe.

I purchased this jig to mill some douglas fir. I picked out the straightest 2x6 from Home Depot, screwed it down, and ran the cut. The jig has instructions to follow and all was well. Since the screws cannot be over tightened, my major issue was bar oil going on the bar and screws getting loose and the jig would lose its place and crash into the chain killing the teeth. Only plausible solution was to drill holes into my bar to keep the jig secure. Unfortunately the bar is a pain to drill through so after one hole I gave up. Overall, once installed and running, the cuts were great - straight, simple, and easy to do. I was doing a long log 16'+ so if you run along the 2x6 back and forth and make multiple passes, it works very well and much quicker. In the end, hiring a portable sawmill @ $80/hr was a much quicker and efficient choice for the project, but it is a great jig to have part of the kit. USA quality and worth it. A secondary horseshoe should be included in the packaging so if one gets destroyed, we don't have to buy the entire jig again.

I purchased this as an attempt to mill a large hemlock tree that had fell in my yard after a recent storm. My idea was to made a new mantle for the fire place and to make some shelves. I had a bunch of extra wood cut because I figured that j would mess it up a bit, but to my suprise it was very simple and easy to use. I ordered a new saw blade, but ended up sharpening my blade to 10 degrees as recommended in the manual. Having the sharp blade is the most important thing besides Having a powerful chainsaw. I used my 20 in bar stihl and it worked very easily. The cuts have a rougher edge to them, but to be honest it was the look I wanted. I was able to mill each 8 foot section of trunk in about 30 minutes with minimum work. All the wood I cut came out square, I would recommend sitting down and really reviewing the manual and taking their advice. I will attach some pictures and I look forward to future projects( including a couple massive cedar logs!).

Simple to use and install on any chainsaw. Very high quality. Do not consider chainsaw milling your own lumber unless you absolutely have to. This also applies to the Grandberg Mill which I also own. Ripping a log is 1000 times harder on the saw and you than crosscutting. The videos that you see demonstrating these mills are cutting soft woods like pine or spruce. On a 14" dia 8' long walnut log using a Husqvarna 460 with 24 inch rip chain, I would go through 3 tanks of gas and have to sharpen my chain after cutting 2 boards and be standing ankle deep in saw dust. Found a sawmill 35 miles away that sawed up my logs for 30 cents / board foot. Smoother cut, less waste, and a heck of a lot easier.