Travaco RM330K Marine-Tex Gluvit Waterproof Epoxy Sealer - 2 lbs.

I had an old leaky aluminum jon boat and this sealed it up great. No more leaks.

Found a used and abused v-hull aluminum boat with many loose and a few missing rivets in the bow, which leaked about 3 gallons an hour. After some wire brush cleanup to remove the previous owners body putty, and a few screws to fill the missing rivets, I applied a coat of gluvit. It went on easily ( I used a roller) and appeared to be setting up fine. But in not wanting to waste it, I applied the rest of the can too soon, and found some runs the next day. It would have been fine if I had just thrown away the excess. Allowing a couple of days for it to set up, it dried to a slick shiny finish. A lake test proved gluvit had done the job and there were no more leaks. Only one problem remained- even though it looks white in the can, gluvit is slightly brown tinted transparent when it dries, so it was quite noticeable on my white boat. However, a second light coat with an ounce or so of white pigment (amazon - White Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint, Latex - 4 oz) mixed in looks Perfect. That was last year, and now, after more than 200 hours on the lake, it still looks great and I only run the bilge pump after a rain. I highly recommend gluvit for both it's effectiveness and ease of application.

I applied this product to my 14 foot jon boat after I had re-riveted the entire boat. I removed all the old paint down to the metal. I then applied the product. It went on smooth and the curing time allowed me time to get a smooth coat. I allowed it to cure for 48 hours. I then did a light sanding with 120 sand paper. The marine paint adhered very good. I have had the boat out several times and the interior of the boat is absolutely dry. Looking forward to many years of fishing with a leak proof boar.

This is the only way I seal leaky rivets now. It hardens but remains flexible with the boat hull. Just be sure to mix it properly for about 3 to 5 minutes. It takes a little while to dry, so make sure the next couple of days are at least 70 degrees, or it won’t cure properly. This stuff is amazing, and I will be buying more in the future. In my case, one can covered the inside of a 16-foot boat. I’ll eventually buy another can for the other side.

My first order was damaged. The large can lid came open and spilled goop all in the box. Thank goodness for the plastic bag it was in, but some did leak out on the box (reason for 4 stars). Amazon refunded my money pretty quick, so kudos to them. As far as easy to use, it's not the easiest stuff I've ever used. It has the consistency of a thick paint, so when applying it to vertical or over head parts it will drip, you just have to keep going over the same area so you don't end up with stalagmites hanging from your project. I applied the Gluvit to the keel of my aluminum boat in an attempt to stop the loose rivet leaks while it was on the boat trailer because I had no way of turning it over. Directions state it has a working time of 90 minutes, I found it's a little longer than that. Do not buy this stuff thinking it will fill gaps because it will not. I had seams less than 1/8 of an inch and it just won't fill the gap. Of course the directions will tell you to use a gap filler on those areas first. It will however seal loose rivets as long as they are not gapped very far. Prep is key, so wire brush or sand the area to be treated, clean with a good solvent afterward, such as paint thinner of acetone. Use the blue painters tape to tape off the area you will be applying or you will end up with epoxy swipes that will leave a shine where you do not want it. Make sure you remove the painters tape before the epoxy hardens or you will have to live with the tape on your project. I used a cheap paint brush to apply the epoxy and it performed great. The two pound can covered an area of about a 6" wide path 17' long with about two decent coats and enough left over to dab some on handful of pin holes on the transom cause by electrolysis. The epoxy was tacky after about 4 or 5 hours and appeared to be hardened over night. Cure time is 48 hours according to the directions, I'll give a few weeks. Ultraviolet light will cause it to change colors according to the directions, so plan on painting over it. I plan on using an armored truck bed coating because I have plenty left over from another project and it will protect the epoxy better than regular paint. Wear gloves and an old long sleeve shirt your willing to trash or you will have a bad day when your finally done. Ask me how I know about the shirt. The big question is, Would I buy this again? Probably, but I would definitely fill the seam gaps with a marine grade putty first. Even the smallest gaps will require a filler. Hope this helps you folks on whether it will work for you.

Used this on a twelve foot aluminum boat that was very beat-up. Cracked ribs and everything. Used two pieces of aluminum angle (2"x3") to directly connect/bolt the center bench seat to the bottom of the boat. So on the bottom, there were screw heads showing. The screw heads stuck up a little more than rivets, but not too bad. Once the angle pieces were installed on each side of the middle bench seat, I mixed a small batch of this stuff and covered the screw heads. The next day another small batch and covered the screw heads again and most of the bottom rivets. Next day, another batch and inside the boat on top of every rivet, the screws, potential problem areas. I probably got five or six batches out of that small container - the stuff goes a long way. The boat did not leak upon testing. I did not weigh the stuff to mix it. I used a kitchen tablespoon to measure the amount of resin to hardener. It sure seemed to work doing it that way. This stuff takes 24 hours, or so, to harden and maybe longer to cure - you cannot be in a rush. I will use it on future boat projects and do recommend it.

This was my first time using Gluvit on the bottom of one of my boats . I used a 6 inch wire cup brush on my large grinder and did the whole bottom of the boat , it looked super . Then I masked about 1 1/2 inch out from the keel and had the boat rolled up on its side so the Gluvit would flow into and under the keel strip . I only painted up to the deepest part of the keel and let it sit for a day . The next day I rolled the boat up on its other side and repeated the process , it seems to have bonded nicely to the day old Gluvit . It flowed into all the low spots and leveled out nicely . After a two day dry it was back on the trailer and headed to water . AAA+++ ( P.S. I used a cheap 2 inch paint brush , I dont recommend using a roller )

My boat is a 14 ft 1977 Star craft vee bottom I bought a few years back. I was skeptical that this stuff would seal old and new rivets. The boat leaked badly and my bilge pump always got a work out. Last winter I sanded the bottom. All the water contact rivets were taken down to bare metal. I replaced about 50 rivets. There was a lot of corrosion on the ones I replaced. I heated my garage to about 65 F using kerosene heaters and applied the product to all the rivets on outside of boat. The colder weather caused the product to take a long time to cure. Lots or runs. The outcome is my boat is now 100 percent dry. I have had it into a few places where the water level is low and bottom gets abraded and banged around. Still dry! Thanks Gluvit! Your product works really well! The quart will seal a 14 ft boat without issue. Good stuff!