Mityvac MV8000 Professional One Person Manual Brake and Clutch Bleeding Kit

I got this to change my brake fluid in my 2015 Tundra and it worked great. My brother also borrowed it for his truck. I bought this because I follow The Car Care Nut on YouTube and this is one of the tools he recommended. Definitely worth the money.

It’s a great little vacation pump worked great for my clutch

If you are looking at portable hand vacuum/pumps for brake bleeding, I would strongly suggest to consider a different product. The MityVac isn't terrible when it works correctly but the build quality is simply lacking. The second time I went to use the product my handle broke and the pin that holds it in place fell out and is gone. To make matters worse, the rod is sticking for no apparent reason now. The included adapters and hoses are flimsy and it's pretty much impossible to use them without straightening them. I really would look elsewhere, there must be a better alternative out there than this piece of junk EDIT: Alright, after some tinkering around, I have concluded that the MityVac actually is a pretty well developed product. There is extensive documentation detailing the components and assembly which makes it VERY easy to take the thing apart and repair it yourself. You can't do the same with most run-of-the-mill mass produced Chinese trash. I was able to take apart my MityVac, get my parts, fix the issue (rust on main piston), and applied some silicon grease as per the instructions. It works good as new now.

Yes the hoses come kinked. I set them in a car in the sun for an hour or two with the windows up and they returned to their original slight curve (from being on a roll at factory) but not kinked. The cup has suction. If you look at it before you try to put it together you will notice it's possible to tighten the lid in either direction. Turning it clockwise until the tab on the cap touches the middle tab of the cup and it holds enough suction to function as intended. As for the "boots" no connecting securely. On my 2004 Sebring they fit perfectly, sealed very well, on my 1999 Eldorado they didn't seal very well because the bleeder valve nipple was pretty rusty and needs to be replaced. That being said it still pulled fluid just not a good stream. I also had no problems with my 1994 F-150. Got this started today at 5pm and had 3 vehicles done (replaced brake fluid in all) by 7:30, this includes time to jack them up and remove and rotate tires, and a couple smoke breaks. The cup isn't very big but is perfect for this purpose. I started by sucking the fluid from the reservoir (filled cup twice) then started with the closest brake (drivers front) worked clockwise around vehicle (filled once for each to get new fluid). Emptying it is a breeze though, if the tube still has fluid in it just put the boot end in a container and press the vacuum release button and it will siphon the entire cup into your container. If there isn't any fluid in hose just give a couple squeezes while submersed in the fluid already in container then press release and it will siphon it all out. I didn't have to unscrew the cup after I put it together. Like others said it is a little awkward to get it to stand on it's own while you have your hands busy, I figured out a way to get the cup upright but it took a few times. The only real problem I had with it was on my 2nd or 3rd brake on the first car the squeeze handle fell off, there was a metal dowel that holds it to a rod and it had somehow gotten turned so it lined up with the hole and just fell out. It must have happened during shipping because once I got it back together (which took placing the dowel in the hole, placing handle on, the using a small flat screwdriver to lift and twist the dowel/rod to lock it in place on the handle-5-10 minutes with slick hands) it never turned again. I believe that most peoples problems originated from bleeder valve nipples that were not in good shape (rust or crud covered) and I would definitely recommend this to my friends/family. For what this costs plus a gallon of brake fluid I did 3 vehicles today, will do one more tomorrow, for less than it would cost to have a shop change the brake fluid on one vehicle.

Best tool of this type I've had, just used it to flush brakes and clutch on a motorcycle. Made quick work of the job, went way better than I anticipated. This is a very good quality tool, holds vacuum and doesn't leak around the reservoir lid. I had a cheaper unit before that broke after a couple uses, the Mityvac is much better for only $15 more. The tubing is stiff but so what, it works just fine and seals around the adapters. Comes with a nice assortment of nipples and adapters and had everything I needed. I'm glad I purchased this tool and highly recommend it if looking for a high quality bleeder kit.

A friend who is a professional mechanic recommended this item to me. My respect for his reputation diminishes by half as a result: First thing out of the box I thought I should assemble the pieces and do a dry-run test: I could not get a vacuum to form. The lip around the waste brake fluid continer would not seal. I thought there was an o-ring missing from the kit. I checked the instructions carefully and concluded a seal was not included. Eventually I tried all 6 orientations that the 4-ounce receiving vessel would snap into the lid containing Vacuum IN and Vacuum OUT plumbing, found 2 positions that kind of sealed, and marked the best orientation with a permanent marker so I could find it the next day for the wet-run. The manual vacuum pump develops a good vacuum. But the devil is in the details. Ancillary problems prevent the apparently excellent engineering of the vacuum piston, plunger, and valve from being useful. All told, I cycled a number of gallons of high-end (expensive) brake fluid through this device. My cost in wasted brake fluid is greater than the new price of this device. First, the worst design problem with this device is that it has only a 4-oz "collection vessel." When you have to quickly pump gallons through the bike to encourage air bubbles to travel down the brake lines, that's a hell of a lot of stopping just when the stream has almost emptied the air from the system to let the bubbles rise back up the vertical brake lines to the handlebars! The biggest problem is that that the small collection vessel requires that you constantly interrupt your progress every minute or 2 to re-empty the reservoir. There are so may problems with this unit, I include a bullet list, below. The vacuum release has a hair-trigger. And I MEAN hair-trigger. If you bump it, touch it against something on the side while trying to rest the unit on something while you refill the fast-emptying brake fluid reservoir on the handlbar (which needs attention every 15 seconds or so), the vacuum is released. At first I thought, "no problem," but it turns out when the vacuum is released by the device, air rushes back into the caliper's slave cylinder. You have to grip the vacuum pump in the same location where the vacuum release hair-trigger is, so... My advice is to use some snap-ring pliers to remove the vacuum release trigger. You can easily depress the end of the valve actuator without the giant hair-trigger lever-arm someone (probably a marketing committee) opted to include. There is the list of problems I encountered with this product. There may be a better product made by the same company, or maybe I just got a lemon. I can usually trust my mechanic friend's advice, but not WRT this item. It's problems include: Poor vacuum seal at lip of collection reservoir; Difficult to avoid vacuum-release hair-trigger; Rear handle of vacuum pump falls off while in use. (See photo); The sealed "clock-face window" for the vacuum gauge fell off. (Perhaps a worker forgot to glue it on?); The white splotch on the side of the vacuum meter bezel (in photo) is due to its coming in contact with DOT5.1 brake fluid -- the most harmless kind. One would think a tool made for use with brake fluid would not be immediately destroyed by brake fluid the first time it touches a tiny amount. The other side of the initially black bezel is mostly white; Neither of the two "6mm" soft rubber fittings provided seal reliably on my 6mm "grease nub" bleeder valves; The vinyl tubing they include was wadded up in a tiny compartment in the corner of the box. Even though I left it stretched straight overnight the night before trying to use it, it curls up when you try to use it, and knocks the miniature collection vessel over, and pulls the fitting off the bleeder valve at the least opportune times. Every time this happens, it introduces air back into the system that was there when I decided to use a "professional tool" to remove the sponginess remaining after I bled the brakes with my homebrew Gatorade bottle. When that infernal trigger kicks air back into the system, you have to start over again from the beginning; The rectangular black plastic piece straight off the face of the vacuum gauge fell off of the vacuum pump. I thought it was a decorative ending for the trigger, because its hollow cross-section is shaped like a cross-section of the giant lever-arm for the hair-trigger. But I see there is no such decorative end piece on the trigger in the product photos, so I am at a complete loss as to where it came from. When I say it "fell out," I mean it fell out. I didn't bump it, drop the pump, nothing. I was taking it into the other room to dry after cleaning it, and it fell out on the floor. After 6 hours of trying to get this unit to work (and I'm no neophyte -- I have bled brakes before) the sun went down, and I gave up. Total FAIL. The brakes were much worse than when I started. They weren't even spongy. No engagement at all. There may be more issues that I forgot to mention about this wonderful tool, but that's as much of my time as I can afford to contribute toward making Jeff rich(er) at the moment. Thank God I still have a little time left to return this POS!

Saw this bleeder vacuum pump being used by a youtuber who i watch on regular basis (The car care nut) who is a very knowledgeable and competent mechanic and i just had to get that tool for myself. He made it look so easy by bleeding brakes that even I had the confidence to do it for the first time. I found it easier to get a great seal and good PSI vacuum just by attaching the tubing directly onto the bleeder screw without any provided attachments. For some reason front calipers were much faster to bleed than rear brakes but if you stick with it, eventually you'll get at least one full canister which is good enough to clear entire brake line until you start seeing clean brake fluid. My brake fluid was well overdue on service (100K overdue) and it's one of those things that people overlook all the time but it turns out that it needs to be done every 30 to 50 thousand miles depending on manufacturers specifications. By now I've done 3 of my cars by myself and i must say it's fairly easy to do. Just a friendly tip; to expedite the process, empty out the master cylinder reservoir and add fresh brake fluid to the top of full line then do each wheel at a time. Most importantly make sure your master cylinder reservoir is always full with fresh fluid and that it doesn't run low on fluid or else you will introduce air into your system. If you have someone to help you replenish fluid as you bleed the system that's even better and will make your work go faster. Good luck with your brake flushing procedure and if i can do it, so can you.

I bought this thinking it would save me time and effort bleeding my motorcycle brake and clutch lines. I ended up doing it correctly the old fashioned way. Save your money if this is your goal, and just do it as the manuals explain and as mechanics have done it for decades! Or better yet, buy a syringe and reverse bleed! The suction isn't especially powerful, and the supplied nipple adapters (6 mm) are too wide to fit snugly on motorcycle calipers (perhaps on other vehicles as well). The suction line kept leaking air, and didn't effectively bleed the lines (in fact it introduced air into the system). I ended up using a clear plastic tube directly fitted to the nipple to create a good seal. You can create much greater and effective pressure by pressing the handle or pedal, then opening and closing the nipple (the usual procedure). The amount of vacuum created and the function of this device can be replicated much cheaper using a syringe and appropriate tubing, for an application that doesn't require pressure readings or precision (bleeding brakes). The other major issue with this is that the fluid reservoir doesn't have a valve that stops the sucked fluid from getting into the pump. When working on vehicles you're not sitting perfectly level and still. The reservoir will eventually go sideways or tilt while you're doing something else (adding fluid, adjusting the nipple, turning the wheel, whatever else) and the vacuum inside the pump WILL suck in some of the drained fluid, and then spit and leak as you pump. There's no convenient way of putting it down while keeping the reservoir up. Even without vacuum, an amount of fluid will get into the tube that connects to the pump, then gets sucked into it whenever you pump again. I had to dismantle the pump and clean everything inside on the very first use. Another nuisance with this thing is the vacuum release. You spend a minute building up vacuum inside the system, then with one tiny touch it depressurizes! It's too close to the handle, and it's very easy to accidentally touch, it has zero resistance so any minimal touch will trigger it. I removed the lever, and just press the metal pin directly to release it. The most important takeaway here is that it took me about 45 minutes fiddling with this thing trying to suck the fluid out of one line. I then put it aside and was done with all brakes & clutch, including getting rid of the air it introduced, in 10 minutes using the tried and tested method: a tube, a receptacle, an 8 mm wrench; pressurize - open - close - repeat. And I still did it all by myself without help. Save your money and time.

En cuanto recibí esta pistola de vacío la probé y me dió hasta 26 pulgadas de mercurio, muy buen vacío!!.El gatillo es muy suave y cómodo Estoy muy contento con ese resultado.

Yeah, Received in good condition and it functions well. Price is less compared to the market. Thank you Amazon.

Utilisé pour tester les membranes de chauffage et autres sur une voiture ancienne. Il faut bien utiliser le bon embout au risque d'avoir des pertes. Envoi très rapide comme toujours avec Amazone.

マイティバッグは前世代型から数十年愛用しております。電源や圧縮エアーも不要で作業ができ本当に便利な道具です。負圧による吸い出し機構なので補助者がいらず、1人でフルード交換ができます。現行型はハンドルが握りやすい形状になり先端に負圧ゲージが追加されバキューム強弱が目視可能になりました。負圧ゲージのぶん、やや重くなりましたがボディは樹脂製なので作業性の良さは健在です。やや高価な道具ですがこのマイティバッグ1個があれば愛車のブレーキ系統のコンディションを良好に保てます。マイティバッグ本体ポンプは材質が樹脂製なのですが掃除の時に質の悪いパーツクリーナーを使うと溶剤浸透や急激な温度変化によって樹脂割れや樹脂劣化しやすくなりますのでウエス拭き清掃にとどめておくと長持ちします。

Despues de probarla en un coche y dos motos estoy satisfecho. En los purgadores en los que se hacía bien el vacío el cambio del líquido de frenos era cómodisimo y rápido. En cambio en los que no, era más costoso, debiendo bombear continuamente para que el vacío no llegase a 0. En cualquier caso el método de succión me ha resultado más cómodo que el tradicional bombea, pisa, abre, cierra, suelta. La succión que es capaz de generar es más que suficiente para hacer el cambio de líquido de frenos en cualquier vehículo. Quizá el sistema de presión sea más cómodo que este de succión.